Dordogne

Stunning landscapes, magnificent medieval and Renaissance chateaux, Roman remains and prehistoric art are just some of the wonders that make Dordogne one of the most popular regions of France.

Gastronomic delights such as duck, geese, truffles, red and white wines and the sweeter Monbazillac, which is perfect with the region’s foie gras, are also very much enjoyed at thousands of restaurants and bars.

Traditionally known as Périgord, Dordogne is essentially divided into four areas. Périgord Vert is in the north and takes its name from the lush green valleys that cross the region, together with wide rivers, fast flowing streams, rolling hills and rocky plateaux. Immense valleys, meadows and limestone plateaux describe Périgord Blanc, which is central to Dordogne and includes Perigueux Dordogne’s prefecture. With Bergerac at its centre, Périgord Pourpre is in the south west and features rolling hillsides and pretty villages as well as the many vineyards which give rise to the name. Rich in historical sights, Périgord Noir is in the south east and can thank the thick woods that line the Dordogne and Vézère rivers for its somewhat dark title.

Nontron is the main town in Périgord Vert and boasts medieval half-timbered houses as well as ruins of the original town fortifications.

Widely known for its 500-year knife making ancestry, the Coutellerie Nontronnaise workshop demonstrates how traditional methods are being combined with cutting edge technology to keep these knives at the sharp end of the industry.

Sometimes referred to as the Venice of Dordogne, nearby Brantome sits on the Dronne river. Built by Charlemagne in 769, the Benedictine Abbey de Brantome is not to be missed. The town also claims to have the oldest church belfry in France (11th century) and a bridge dating back to the 15th century.

Museums in the region include the Musée Fernand-Desmoulin in Brantome, the Chocolate Museum at the Chateau le Verdoyer in Terrasson, and the Maison du Foie Gras at Thiviers. For beautiful architecture and a glimpse into past times, take a look at the fabulous Chateau de Jumilhac, the medieval castle and renaissance palace that make up the Chateau de Bourdeilles, and the elegant Chateau Puyguilhem. If you fancy panning for gold in the River Isle, you could also take in a visit to the Musee de l’Or.

Steeped in vineyards, Périgord Pourpre has the market town of Bergerac at its centre. North of the River Dordogne, old Bergerac is full of tiny streets, medieval squares and half-timbered buildings. A visit to the 17th century cloistered Couvents des Recollets, which is linked to the Maison des Vins, will not only delight you with the choice of wines but it also includes an exhibition on the history of Bergerac wines and its 17 appellations. Despite the fact that Savinien Cyrano, the real man behind the literary hero known as Cyrano de Bergerac, never actually visited the town, his well-endowed statue looms large in the Place Pelissière and is worth a “nose”. The town knows how to reproduce a hero and another statue of the man can be found at the more peaceful Place de la Mirpe.

Next to the old bridge and just below the old town, the Quai is home to a flotilla of traditional Garbares boats, ready to take visitors along the river. For those who prefer to walk, the Promenade Pierre Loti provides wonderful views of the surrounding buildings.

Other interesting towns and villages include the 13th century bastide town of Eymet and the medieval village of Issigeac which somehow managed to survive the horrors that it endured during the wars of the Middle Ages. Founded by King Edward I of England in 1284, Monpazier is one of France’s most beautiful villages and incorporates no less than 30 national monuments.

As a place of protection for protestants in the Wars of Religion, Chateau Monbazilliac houses important engravings and documents from that era, as well a 16th and 17th century furniture.

Upstairs there is a contemporary art collection, whilst downstairs visitors can see a wall containing 6,000 bottles of golden coloured Monbazillac, together with a 16th century vaulted kitchen and a wine museum. Other museums include The Musée du Tabac which charts the evolution of tobacco smoking and includes an exhibition of snuff boxes and pipes, and the Musée du Vin et de la Batellerie which highlights the history of river transport and the movement of wine on the Dordogne.

Apart from the rue de la République which was built to improve traffic flow in the 19th century, Sarlat la Canéda in Périgord Noir is one of the best preserved towns in France. The old main square at La Place de la Liberté is home to foie gras, walnuts and truffles on market day, as well as some stunning architecture and welcoming cafés.

A national monument, the Cathédrale St Sacerdos cannot be missed in the town centre with its bulbous bell tower. Dating from the 16th century, it is surrounded by interesting buildings such as the Florentine style Ancien Evêché which was previously the bishop’s palace and is now a thriving theatre. One of Sarlat’s oddest buildings is the Lanterne des Morts. Little is known about this domed stone tower except that it was built in the 12th century and there is an ossuary in the basement. The narrow windows are too small to allow access and there is no entry point to the first floor circular room.

Fortified against the English in 1281, and in a spectacular setting overlooking the Dordogne river, Domme is another miraculous survivor of the Hundred Years War. The Porte des Tours is one of three enormous gateways set in the town’s original walls. From the central square, visitors canenter a series of caves that stretch beneath the entire village. More caves can be found at Les Eyzies de Tayac where Cro-Magnon man was discovered in 1868. The caves are located in the Vézère river valley, otherwise known as the valley of man, because of the sheer number of prehistoric settlements that have been found there. The Musée Natonal de la Préhistoire is a good place to learn more about the life of early man.

Duck Surprise Apero

It really is hard to beat a slice of foie gras mi-cuit on a piece of toast topped with onion confit, but you could try this.

– In a mixer, blend the meat from two duck confit legs and a handful of herbs (1/3 marjoram, 1/3 sage and the rest parsley – or whichever herbs take your fancy) until you have a finely ground meat type texture – not a paste.
– Mix in one beaten egg.  Form round balls with the meat.  Flatten to make a patty and then place a decent amount of mi-cuit foie gras in the centre.   Fold the confit around the foie gras – you are aiming for something the size of a large egg.
– Deep fry for a couple of minutes – you really just want a crunchy outside and a warm centre, drain, cut in half and serve.  You could place a small amount of onion confit on top but try not to hide the soft creamy filling.